Achieve the best possible fit with each suit
Devlon Paris suits, excluding ready to wear collections, are Made to Measure. This means we architect the suit around your unique body measurements. The reason for this is simple, we want every person wearing our suits to have the best possible fit and the only way to ensure this is to construct the suit around your body build and type.
Our suits are designed with a slim fit, no trouser pleats, and no trouser cuffs. Of course we can adjust this design based on your style requests and provide more room depending on your body type. Whether you are being fitted for a suit by Devlon Paris (after all, why wouldn't you want to be) or if you decide to go with another option, we still want you to understand how a proper fitting suit should look and feel.
There are many points of fine tuning involved in a well fitting suit but we don't want to make this too long of a read, so we will touch on the basics. Your Style Advisor will provide much more detail during your Fitting Consultation.
A proper fitting suit of good quality lies flat on the shoulder. The seam on the top of the shoulder should be the same length as the bone under it and should meet where your arm meets your shoulder. Shoulders that show "ripple effects" which create lumps or wrinkles at the top of the jacket or on the sleeve are signs that the jacket does not fit properly.
2. Button the Jacket
While standing, button your jacket. What you want to see is that your jacket buttons do not strain and that there are no wrinkles around the point where your jacket is buttoned - it should be very smooth.
The general rule to remember is that with a three button suit, always use the middle button (and for the love of suits never button the third button - in case you are unclear about which button is the third button, it is the button at the bottom).
If the jacket looks strained or there is too much room when buttoned, the fit is not a good one.
We tend to stick with the golden rule, about a half-inch of the shirt cuff should be visible beyond the jacket cuff. Please don't get too ridiculous with this rule and measure the actual portion of the shirt that shows beneath the jacket cuff.
Use a quick visual check. The jacket cuff should never hide the sleeve entirely and the part of the shirt seam where the shirt cuff and the shirt connect should also never be visible. You will be able to identify the proper length with a visual spot check.
The ideal fit for the jacket length is for it to cover a man down to the point where the buttocks start to curve back inward. An acceptable fit is for the jacket to also cover the top of the curve formed by the buttocks.
In general, the hem of the jacket (when you are standing relaxed) should come right around the middle of your hand or just at the point past where the fingers meet the palm. The no-no's of jacket length are jackets that come down past your arms or that stop above the buttocks - absolutely not approved in our style guide.
The jacket collar should rest flush against your shirt collar. It should not display gaps or wrinkles. The wrinkles form the "bunching" effect on a suit jacket.
The Trouser Seat
While we can't control what shape your back regions have decided to take, the rule for the trouser we can control. The trouser should drape smoothly across the rear end. There should be no strain lines (too tight) or sag (too baggy).
The Trouser Break
The "break" of the trouser refers to the small crease like wrinkle formed when the top of your shoe stops your trouser cuff from falling its full length.
The trouser break should be very subtle. The ideal trouser break should rest on top of your shoe (and may fall just a tad longer in the back than in the front - should still be above the heel of your shoe). The key for our fit guide is that there needs to be slight contact between the shoe and the trouser, not so much that the trouser looks baggy at the bottom and not so little that the trouser stops high before reaching the shoe.